travels in a motorhome: Porto Kagio and Neo Itilo.

Monday 23rd June.

We are parked up tonight in the beautiful little harbour of Porto Kagio. We are running out of superlatives to describe some of the places we have been to but this place is absolutely stunning. It's picture postcard Greece. There is nothing here other than three tavernas, a couple of private houses and two discreet hotel/apartments. We had to drive across the beach to get to the parking spot we have. About a dozen yachts are parked in the harbour and half a dozen small fishing boats moored up. We are in Mani country, a land of blood feuds going back centuries. The folk here consider themselves Spartans not Greeks and didn't formally accept Greek rule until the middle of the nineteenth century and then somewhat reluctantly. The feuds between clans here were fierce and bloody, hence the word maniac and whilst things have obviously calmed down a bit there are still families who will not associate with other families and villages folk who won't go near another village with the wrong folk in it. A bit like Yorkshire I suppose.

We walked around the cliff today and stumbled upon a tiny church, no more than twenty feet square. The door was closed with a hook and eye latch. We went inside and were amazed by the sheer number of icons on the walls, on tables and on the tiny altar. It was a lovely little church and demonstrates the Greek peoples trusting nature and honesty.

Earlier we went into Gythio to book our ferry tickets. Unfortunately there were no spaces left for a camping car on any of the ferries from Patras to Trieste in July!! So we are going from Patras to Venice. It's more expensive, obviously, but still cheaper than driving through the Balkans. We sail on the 11th July at midnight and arrive in Venice at 8am on the 13th, camping on board on the open deck. Another adventure. And of course a chance to visit Venice.

We've just come back from a meal in the Taverna, we are parked in their car park so it's only fair that we eat there. A beer, Sardines, Tzatziki, vine pie, a carafe of wine and coffee for €30. Better than paying €16 for a campsite I reckon. The sea is like a millpond, not a cloud in the sky so we can see a trillion stars and there is not a sound to be heard; wonderful.

There are lots of little harbours and ports all along this coastline, we are heading for one tomorrow which is only twenty minutes away and if that doesn't suit us the next one is just another twenty minutes further on. No need to drive long distances in the Mani.

Tuesday 24th June.

We are parked up tonight on the sea wall at Neo Itilo. Pebble beach, three tavernas, a church and that's about it. But we've found water at the end of the village so we'll top up tomorrow before we continue our tour of the Mani coastline. After leaving Porto Kagio this morning we stopped at Gerilomemas for coffee and a few groceries, then on to Mezzapos for lunch, then Areopoli for a cash machine and more coffee and then on to where we are parked now. We basically follow the main coast road and every time we see a sign that says "Beach" we follow the arrow, usually down single track roads and stop for a look around. There are worst ways of spending the day.

One thing we've noticed whilst driving around the Mani coastline is that despite the financial difficulties here in Greece there must still be a few euros about. Every village we've passed through has building activity, usually restoring houses in the traditional stone used in this area. There are lots of beautiful big houses here built in the style of mini castles and the quality of the stonework is really impressive.

A few photos from the last couple of days:

The little port of Kotronas.