Hyeres

Tuesday 12th April

We are parked up this afternoon in a vineyard which is part of the France Passion scheme, (43.117223 6.083937) Domaine Bouisse-Matteri,which means we stay for free and have the opportunity to buy even more wine direct from the producer. This wasn't our plan. Hyeres looked like an interesting town and after consulting our various guides discovered that we could park overnight for free in the car park of the massive LeClerc supermarket. We set off this morning after another night of howling wind - it's been really windy for days now and it was starting to drive us crazy, trying to sleep with the van rocking and everything flapping. Looking at the routes the Sat Navs had shown us it looked like we would be skirting Marseille which was ideal. Even now I'm not quite sure what went wrong but skirt we did not. Now I don't know what you have heard about Mediterranean drivers but it's all true. I was cut up so many times at junctions and roundabouts that I'm surprised I didn't need a blood transfusion afterwards. It took us the best part of an hour to get through the city, miraculously in one piece and the sighs of relief as we finally got onto the A50 could have been heard in Paris. We stopped at the first aire for a coffee and a fag, set off again and skirted Toulon without further problems and arrived at Hyeres. Where there were roadworks. Route Barre! - the sign we dread. We could see LeClerc, we could see motorhomes in the car park, they were getting closer! And closer! Round and round we went and eventually we arrived, parked up and popped into the supermarket for a few essentials. Back to the van where we decided that although a supermarket car park wasn't the prettiest location we'd have some lunch, explore the town and it would be OK for an overnight stop.

Halfway through lunch (cannelloni as you asked) we noticed a couple of security guys coming our way, one with a walkie talkie and a younger guy with a clipboard. They went to the other four French vans first, knocked on the doors and said something to the occupants. Then they came to us, at first confused because our habitation door is on the "wrong" side but once they'd worked that out they spoke to us in a polite manner. When I explained that my French was tres mal and I understood nothing they were saying the younger guy explained in English that we were welcome to stop in the car park but only when the supermarket was closed, between 8pm and 8am. Looking around at the three quarters empty car park and our spot at the extreme far corner I enquired if that was because there was pressure for parking spaces. He laughed and said he was sorry but "My boss you know, it's what he says" Ok no problem but may we finish our lunch? Yes, take your time, have a nice day.

To be honest we didn't want to stop at another vineyard because although there is no obligation to buy anything I think it's rather rude not to and with the van groaning under the wine we have already we weren't really in the market for anymore. Still, we can always find room for a 5 litre box of Cotes de Provence Rose and we're parked in a field of clover overlooking the vines with the peak of Le Fenouillet in the distance so not too much to complain about really. And there's no wind! Unfortunately we're a little way out of Hyeres now so we didn't get to explore the town.

Tomorrow will be our last day in France and on Thursday we'll cross into Italy.

View from the vineyard:

Pat

 

Posted with Blogsy

Farewell to the Camargue.

Monday 11th April.

This evening we are parked up in Carro (43.32943 5.039459), on La Cote Bleue, about 30 kilometres east of Marseilles and about 5 metres from the beach where the waves are crashing and we've been entertained this afternoon by the windsurfers:

It's particularly impressive when these guys catch the wind and a wave just right and perform a somersault! It's getting dark now and, if anything, the waves are a little higher and there are still folk out there making the most of it. I'm expecting to see a couple with lights on their heads soon. A bit like when I used to go fishing as a lad, just one more cast as it got darker and darker. In this case I guess it's just one more wave before they have to go home for their tea.

We enjoyed Saintes Maries de la Mer so much that we decided to stay another day yesterday. We explored a little more of the town and the beaches and then saw a group of riders clattering down the Main Street.

What you can't see from this photo, and what we didn't realise until they'd ridden past was that they were escorting about half a dozen Bulls between them! They were going at a fair pace too and forming a horseshoe around the Bulls. I guess they were taking them back from the bullring to the farm. It was another lovely day again albeit a little windy and we couldn't resist another meal in the sunshine. Can you guess which dish we chose?

If we didn't have to be in Ancona for the 22nd I think we would have stayed a bit longer in the Camargue but it's certainly an area we'll come back to. I'd never really thought about different kinds of light before but having spent a few days in the area I can understand why Van Gogh and Cezanne did so many paintings here. Everything really does seem vivid and bright.

Before we left we took the opportunity to visit a couple of vineyards where we bought a few bottles of the local vin des Sables, the wine is unique to the area and best known for its Vins Gris or grey wines. Many of the vines spend a small portion of the year awash in the tide and so require a lot of attention; always nice to know that a bit of effort has been put into a bottle.

We've pretty much hugged the coast since leaving Spain but there's so much more to visit inland. Arles, Avignon and Aix-en-Provence are all places that will have to wait until next year, hopefully.

Tomorrow we'll head west again, probably stopping somewhere near Toulon.

Pat

 

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The Camargue.

Friday 8th April

We are parked up today in a private Motorhome parking area 43.562035 4.166197, a couple of kilometres from Aigues Mortes as the crow, or flamingo, flies but nearer 6 kilometres walking distance. But it's a pleasant walk through the salt water lagoons, vineyards, acres of asparagus and fields with the white Camargue horses and black bulls. We arrived yesterday after a scenic drive from Cap d'Agde which didn't really appeal to us too much and, after wandering along canal sides and round footpaths by lagoons trying to find a route to Aigues Mortes, spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing in the sunshine before enjoying a meal in the restaurant here and getting tips from the owner about the quickest or more scenic walking routes to the medieval city. Armed with the route we set off this morning, the guy here said we might be challenged by the owner of the vineyard through which we had to walk and, sure enough an old guy on a bicycle with a big hunting dog stopped us but when we showed him our card from the site here he smiled at us and wished us a pleasant walk. Pleasant it was but it took us an hour walking briskly to reach the walled city. First stop tourist information where we obtained a guide book and where it was suggested we walked around the ramparts - at €17.50 each. We decided to explore the city with a ground view perspective.

It was a beautiful sunny day, albeit a little windy, and we were on a mission to find a restaurant where we could sit in the sunshine and watch the world going by while we fortified ourselves with Moules Frites and a cold bottle of dry white wine. That's all we wanted and which we didn't think was too much to expect. Alas none of the thirty or so restaurants were offering Moules Frites!! Not a one. Ok, Aigues Mortes is a tourist destination but we still were disinclined to part with €25+ for a three course meal when all we wanted was a bowl of mussels. So after walking around and repeatedly saying "How much?!?!" at the prices in the boutiques and souvenir shops we set off back to the van for spaghetti in our patented garlic,anchovy, parsley and tomato sauce (recipe available on request).

We think we'll stay in the Camargue for a few more days, there's a lot more to explore and the scenery is unique. Plus pink flamingos and white horses. Bit of info - the flamingos turn white in winter because of a lack of carotene rich brine shrimp and the white horses are born brown, turning white upon maturity - you're welcome.

Saturday 9th April.

We are parked up in a Motorhome car park at Les Saintes Maries de la Mer 43.455829 4.427753 and what a delightful place it is. Still in the heart of the Camargue and a five minute walk to the beach and a pretty village. We are bordered by the Rhone and the petit Rhone and although the village abounds with restaurants and shops there is a laid back feeling to the place and a lovely atmosphere. Our first stop today was, as usual, the tourist information office where we were advised of the best places to see some of the 500 bird species to be found here in the wetlands, directions for the best walks in the area and, best of all, we saw a poster for a Camargue Race in the bullring this afternoon. In the races the Raseteurs challenge the Bulls and try to take off decorations hanging from their horns and then jump over the barrier before a couple of tons of angry animal jumps all over them. Great fun. No bulls are injured during this activity but they certainly get tormented and suitably pissed off by the young lads running around them. One of the Bulls smashed the barrier, which was followed by the sound of an electric saw while they quickly carried out repairs, and there were a couple of close shaves for the athletic lads to great applause from the crowd. There are 8 "races" with a half time interval during which it occurred to me that we were only really watching in the hope that one of the lads got his timing wrong, a bit like watching motor racing waiting for the crash or cricket waiting for the bouncer to catch the batsman on his bonce. Today, however, Raseteurs and Bulls both finished the races; the Bulls with only their pride damaged and the young lads unharmed apart from one who cracked his knee on a barrier with a bull six inches from a part of the anatomy where you don't want a bull.

We had time for lunch before the bullring and to our great joy this village is Moules central! After yesterday's disappointment it was a pleasure indeed to sit in the sunshine and feast on mussels. We hadn't really planned on staying here tonight but we've enjoyed ourselves so much and there's so much more to explore that we'll stay another day before heading for a France Passion vineyard nearby on Monday, we're running out of wine!

Photos in the bullring bar:

 

Big bull:

He just made it!:

 

Pat

 

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Girona to Agde

Wednesday 6th April.

We've had no WiFi for a few days so it's time to catch up and mention where we've been. On Monday we arrived in Girona, a lovely city we last visited some ten years ago. Last time we were in a small hotel but this time in a dedicated Motorhome parking area 41.98393 2.81384 where it was only a ten minute walk to the old town. Well, it would have been a ten minute walk but I shunned the map supplied to us saying that I knew the way and anyway would be able to recognise some landmarks. An hour later we found the old town! Nothing much had changed but when we were here before it was St George's day when men traditionally give roses to ladies and ladies give books to men. Not a bad deal eh? Then the streets were full of booksellers and florists but this time a little quieter. We had a lovely meal in the restaurant Boira at the Placa de la Independencia overlooking the Riu Onyar and the Pont de Sant Agusti and then found our way back to the van in ten minutes! The water pump for the onboard fresh water had been making odd noises for a few days but, like all clever motorhomers I had a spare. Unfortunately the connecting hose was too short for the new pump so off I set to the ferreterias for some more hose. First one didn't have it, second one - which was like Arkwright's shop - did have. Back to the van and twenty minutes later - no more squeeking pump!! When we returned a Dutch couple with a couple of dogs had parked next to us and we introduced ourselves. Can't remember their names but one of their dogs was called Jacqueline. "We used to call it Jacky" they said "But in France Jacky is a flasher! So we changed her name!" Hmm, is this true?

We planned to stop another day in Girona but on Monday night it poured down with rain and continued the next morning with no sign of abating. No point trudging round in a deluge so we set off for Saint-Cyprien and another Motorhome site on the edge of the Marina 42.61797 3.03524. A barrier again where we took our Entry/Exit card for use when we departed and then went for a walk in the rain around a pretty tourist destination which I'm sure would have been even prettier had the sun been shining. But we did find a laundrette which washed our clothes and provided shelter from the rain. We knew we were in France because whilst waiting for the washing we called in the bar next door. Two beers which in Spain would cost €2.40 were cheerfully supplied for €5.20. Cheers!

I was a bit worried about the procedure for exiting the car park as I had read that another English couple had to phone for the attendant to let them out because their card didn't work. I waited until a French van went to leave and then asked the lady passenger if I could watch while she went through the procedure. She patiently explained to me what I had to do until her husband shouted "He's English, he doesn't know what you're talking about! That's why he wants to watch!!!" Aah, lovely. Anyway ten minutes later and we were paid, out and on the road. 

A much better day today, sunshine and blue skies. A lovely drive to Agde where we are parked up in a car park 43.285565 3.517241 controlled by the local campsite. They want €23 for the campsite or €10 for the car park and as we've done the washing it's a no-brainer really. We've had a massive lunch of all the bits cluttering up the fridge and when the sun drops a bit we'll go and explore the beach and Marina. No Photos, not because I can't upload them but because I haven't taken any!

Tomorrow we set off for Aigues  Mortes. Last time we visited here was with our eldest daughter and her family. It was a scorching hot day and her eldest son was not in the best of moods in his pushchair.(Phil has just pointed out that it must have been 18 years ago!!) I thought it was a great day; I went off with my son in law and we had Moules Frittes and a bottle of Chablis in the shade. Happy days. 

Pat

Trials and (probably) errors!

Sunday 3rd April 2016.    This sunny afternoon we are parked up in the delightful seaside town of Sant Feliu de Guixols in a dedicated Motorhome parking area 41.780068 3.02283. It's a ten minute walk to the beach and harbour and five minutes to the Tourist Info office which is housed in an ex monastery. There was a market today where we at last bought some decent honey (and pollen). We have yoghurt and honey for breakfast but this is the first decent honey we have bought for ages - thyme flavoured as you asked. We thought we might have lunch in one of the restaurants in the town but we have been a little spoilt with menu del dia for €9 and balked at paying €15 plus for the same thing here. So we came back and cooked chicken stuffed with ham and cheese, sauté potatoes and white beans (thank you Lidl), all washed down with a bottle of Buen Minon Ribero del Duero from the bodega in Bolnuevo. Yesterday I was more than a little frustrated with my inability to post photos via Blogsy, my blogging app, and whilst I have so far been unable to find a replacement app I have found an editing app (BlogPad Pro) so I'm trying again today to post the photos I took yesterday at Santa Coloma de Cervello. It takes twice as long to create each post and there must be a better way of doing things but I haven't discovered it yet. If there's anyone with more tech know how than me reading this I'd be pleased for any advice you may have.

Here's the story

Archway

Designed by Gaudi

  Unfortunately all the interesting buildings were closed on Saturday afternoon so we missed looking inside, maybe next time.  Tomorrow we set off for Girona which is not too far up the road and providing we can park up in the Motorhome parking spot, which has only 10 places, we may stop a couple of days. We visited Girona a few years ago and really liked it so we may do a bit of sightseeing and take a break from driving before we head off into France.  Pat

Test

Just a test to see if I can, through a laborious process, upload photos.

 

  Pat

Aargh!!!!

Saturday 2nd April 2016

We're parked up this afternoon in a car park next to the small football stadium at Santa Coloma de Cervello 41.365406 2.025389, a few miles north of Barcelona. It took us a few hours driving along the N340 & A7 to get here and it's a pretty scenic drive for the most part. A stop at Lidl and a coffee stop on the way and after an early start for us (10am) we were here for 2.30pm.
Lunch and then a walk around the village which was far more interesting than we had anticipated. Here's the story:

Well, it would have been a story - in fact it would have been a photo or several photos but after spending an hour trying to upload photos to the blog I discover that Blogsy is no longer on the App Store and neither is the company behind Blogsy! Photos can no longer be uploaded! Support is no longer available!

So what might have been an interesting post about the Modernist Colony here and the church designed by Gaudi and our walk through the pretty town and the second half of the football match in the stadium (don't know the final score but the locals scored thrice in the 2nd half despite having a man (boy?) sent off) and a few pretty photos to add local colour, what you have now instead is a very, very angry blogger - and no photos.

I haven't used Blogsy for a while so was unaware of this situation until today. Here is what they have to say:

Blogsy II) which would work with the latest version of iOS. Unfortunately, due to the changes in iOS, Blogsy II would become sluggish and basically unusable after dragging in only a few media items (photos or vidoes).

Given the fact that the sales of Blogsy have been so low for quite some time, we would not be able to recoup our investment to rebuild Blogsy from the ground up in hopes that there could be a solution to this sluggishness.

Therefore we have removed Blogsy from the app store and there will be no new version. We have also removed PUPS from the App Store.

Fomola, the company behind Blogsy and PUPS, has been shut down.

Thank you to all of you that have helped along the way and all those that have sent emails of support, encouragement and praise. It was a great experience and memory.

This is one failure closer to success  

I have no words to describe my frustration with this. Half the fun of our travels was spending time in the evenings talking about our travels and adventures and posting photos of where we had been and what we had seen. We can't do all of this any more. I can still keep a "diary" and post that but it's no fun without the accompanying photos.
So unless I can find another platform to host the blog, one which was as easy to use as Blogsy, then I'm sacking the whole thing. Back to postcards eh?