Meteora - Monastery Overload.

We are parked tonight at Camping Viachos in Kastraki with the Ambaria rock towering over us. We arrived here this afternoon after visiting six of the rock top monasteries. The rock formations in this area would be stunning in themselves but the fact that there are monasteries built on top of them is simply amazing.The monasteries were founded, mostly, in the 14th Century and access originally was by removable ladders and later by windlasses by which monks would be hauled up and down several hundred feet in rope baskets. In the early part of the last century steps were hewn into the rocks for access and now a tarmac road encircles the area with parking places adjacent to each monastery.

 

. Not to say that access is too easy! The first monastery that we visited was accessed by a steep path down into the valley and than a steep climb via steps up to the main doors, I wouldn't want to be the monk they sent out for a pint of milk when they ran out. This was Agia Triada, the smallest monastery we visited, with the smallest chapel and with original frescos from 1680.

 

Next was Agios Stephanos, much easier to access via a bridge over a gorge and a little larger. Both of these Monasteries had been renovated externally but the chapels remained intact and were stunning with original frescos and paintings

 

Then we visited the Grand Meteoro, founded in the 14th Century it is the largest and the highest of the monasteries, perched on a rock 613m above sea level. This was the highlight of the day. Two absolutely stunning chapels, a restored infirmary and refectory, a fascinating museum showing the Greek struggles against the Turks and against the Axis invaders in 1941. And all around views of the rocks and other monasteries perched on top of rocks looking for all the world like a sneeze would send them tumbling down.

 

The ossuary.

Finally we visited Varlaam, but after the Grand Meteoro it was always going to be a hard act to follow but we were lucky enough to catch a tour guide explaining the details of the chapel to an American tour group so we learnt a lot about the frescos and paintings depicted and the architectural style. After her talk the Greek guide asked if there were any questions. There were:

"So, is this chandelier,like,original?"

"So, where does John the Baptist figure in all this?"

Varlaam from Grand Meteoro.

 

It was a fantastic day but after five hours we were a little tired, I don't know how many steps we went up and down but it was enough that our legs will be aching tomorrow I'm sure. This is a truly spiritual area and althought the larger sites have a few stalls outside selling touristy artifacts it's not overdone. There are balconies and terraces at all the monasteries where you can sit and enjoy the views or simply contemplate the effort and skill to have built these places of worship or, in fact, sit and try to contemplate nothing. It's a beautiful spot for hiking and the monasteries can be reached by trails through the woods and valleys. Today, Saturday, there were at least half a dozen coaches at each site, it wasn't too busy but I wouldn't want to come here at the height of the tourist season. I'm sure we'll come again though, one day.

Tomorrow we head over the Katara Pass to Metsovo although we are now full of trepidation as our "guide" Bernd is calling it the "damned" pass. Should we be worried?

Pat

 

 

Posted with Blogsy