We are parked up tonight at Chez Pauline, in Tadighoust about ten miles or so north of Goulmima. We arrived yesterday and the last few miles were along narrow bumpy tracks with overhanging trees and buildings but the drive was well worth the effort, this is a truly remarkable place. Owned by Andre and Chantal Boyer, who were hoteliers for a decade in Guinea and Seirra Leone, they now have a homestead just outside a small Berber village with some gites and parking for a few Motorhomes. We are surrounded by Palm trees, and cherry, apricot, peach, almond, plum, olive, lemon and orange trees. Pet dogs and cats wander about and we have no need for an alarm clock as the donkey in the small paddock behind us starts braying at 6.30am sharp. This couple have amassed an amazing collection of African masks, statuary and artefacts which are scattered about the house and gardens. Chantal can cook too! Tonight we enjoyed cream of courgette soup, home made rilletes, pork (yes pork) casserole and strawberries and papaya, all ingredients being organic and sourced locally if not grown by Andre and Chantal. The best meal we've had in Morocco, in fact the best meal we've had anywhere for a long time.
There are fertile fields all around the village and a primitive but effective irrigation system and the lush green environment is a stark contrast to the Hammada, or rocky desert, which surrounds it and which is overlooked by the High Atlas. And it's the Haut Atlas which we will be crossing tomorrow heading north on our way to Midelt. There are two routes, one on a national road all the way and one on tarmac which has a stretch of piste for about ten miles and which gets up to about 2500m. Much as we would like to take the "scenic" route, considering we are driving Motorhomes and not Land Cruisers common sense has to prevail. Also the rougher road may well be blocked by snow at time of year. According to the guide books Midelt hasn't a great deal to recommend it and for us it's just an overnight stop on the way to Azrou and Ifrane which both sound like places we would like to visit. Meanwhile, a couple of pics:
I think this sky could safely be called azure eh?
Parked up at Chez Pauline, the oranges in the tree in the foreground were picked an hour or so later for marmalade.
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