Bad Snowboarding Link

The link to my snowboarding exploits didn't work on my last post so try this:

http://travelwithpaulandchris.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/25-feb-barbary-apes-and-cedars.html

 

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Volubilis and Fes

We are parked up tonight in a campsite on the outskirts of Fes. It's pretty scuzzy but we are used to that by now and as long as we have access to water we are ok. We left Moulay Idriss this morning and stopped at the Roman ruins at Volubilis on the way here and whilst I'm not usually impressed by a jumble of two thousand year old stones I have to say it was pretty impressive. The city was the most southerly outpost of the Roman Empire, housing over 20,000 people at its peak in the second century and is the best preserved archeological site in Morocco with many original mosaics. Unlike many sites of ancient settlement or cities it's not sterile. In between the Roman baths, arches, houses and aqueducts wild flowers bloom, storks nest, donkeys roam and the only areas cordoned off from the visitors are the mosaics. Again we were lucky arriving in the morning at this time of year and apart from one coach party and a few Moroccan families we had the place to ourselves.

After a couple of hours wandering around the site we set off for Fes and the mysterious rattling we've had from the back of the van got worse. The last couple of times we'd parked up for the night we had repacked the cupboards and the garage all to no avail. Today Phil stumbled about in the back of the van as we drove along trying to locate the source of the noise and reckoned it was outside the van underneath the bed area. We stopped at a Marjane supermarket in Fes (we were down to our last can of beer!) and I crawled under the van pulling and poking until I discovered that one of the brackets holding the spare wheel had jumped off its housing. Ten minutes later and with the aid of Paul and a scissor jack everything was good. No more rattles. While we were in the car park a guy came up and asked if we were going to the "Camping International" campsite and when we said we were he offered to show us the way if we followed him on his motorbike. We declined saying we could find our own way and he got quite angry and a little aggressive. He was still there when we came out of the supermarket and again we declined his "services". Off we set, Paul leading the way and as we exited a roundabout a moped pulled up alongside him weaving around the potholes,dodging pedestrians and shouting and gesticulating that he would show him the way to the campsite. It was pretty scary for me following behind, I fully expected the guy to hit a bump as he was spending more time shouting at Paul than he was looking at the road and the thoughts of him ending up under my van or wrapped round a lamppost were quite worrying. Eventually he got the message that we didn't need a guide and pulled over to the side, much to our relief.

Tomorrow we are off to take in the sights of Fes. We've read and heard from other folk some pretty negative stories about the place in terms of the hassle and hustle factor so we've decided to take a full day guided tour setting off from the campsite at 9.30am. There's nothing left we want to buy now in Morocco so we can keep out of the carpet shops and avoid the soft (hard) sell. I'll let you know how we get on!

Some photos from Volubilis. The Triumphal Arch:

Not carpets but two thousand year old mosaics:

 

The Basilica, with Stork:

The small archway at the top of the site:

 

Oh yes, if you want to see a pic of me snowboarding in Morocco go here: http://travelwithpaulandchris.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/25-feb-barbary-apes-and-cedars.html

 

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Moulay-Idriss

We are parked tonight on a campsite a few miles south of Moulay-Idriss. It's a nice site on three levels and very busy. Good electrics but we are using our on board facilities, say no more.

We left Azrou this morning heading for Meknes, the guide books said it had a nice Medina and souk and was not as frenetic and less hassle free than Fes. Unfortunately there are no campsites in Meknes, which is quite a large sprawling city so as we arrived we were looking for a parking space whilst trying to negotiate the most traffic we had seen for some time. I picked up a sign for the ancient medina and we ended up down a one way street which became increasingly narrow with locals waving telling us there was nowhere to go at the end. It did look like a dead end but finally there was a narrow archway leading to a small car park which just had space for our two Motorhomes, phew! The medina was a five minute walk away and didn't disappoint. Paul and Chris had been looking for a lantern and found one they liked at a price they liked too and we found a kilim that we hadn't been looking for at a price we liked. It's a perfect fit in the van and looks beautiful. We wandered the alleyways until we stopped for coffee and biscuits, or Moroccan gateaux as it was described, until we came to the main square and stopped for coffee again to the sound of the snake charmers flute. Food shopping next, fresh fish, chicken, olives, fruit and veg and then back to the vans to restock our fridges. Back to the main square for lunch this time by a different route through a bewildering array of small shops which, once again, sold pretty much everything you could need. There really is no need for supermarkets here, everything you could buy in Tesco's can be bought wandering down a couple of streets and in the covered market.

We stopped to buy some bananas from this guy and he snapped us with his camera, as we returned the compliment he couldn't help but strike a pose:

 

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Bit of a leak

We are parked up tonight at a campsite just outside Azrou, we arrived yesterday after driving over the Middle Atlas from Midelt. As we climbed up, peaking at 2200 metres it started to rain and became considerably colder, the snow gates were open but there was still snow lying around us. The landscape reminded us of the Yorkshire Dales or the Lake District. We dropped down into Azrou and the weather could only be described as miserable but we parked up, turned on the heating and settled down to waste an afternoon watching a movie. We enjoyed Captain Phillips despite the sub-titles for the Somalie actors being in Japanese! We would have enjoyed it more had a sudden rush of water not splashed onto my neck and over the bench seat. We've had a small problem before with the roof light leaking but nothing like this. Water was running down almost continuously and as is was teeming down outside I couldn't get on to the roof to see where the problem was. Captain Phillips was paused several times as we manoeuvred a bucket under the leaks and eventually I taped a bin liner over the roof light, cut a hole where the water was gathering and placed a bucket underneath. At least the water was now falling into one spot and we could hear it dripping into the bucket as we lay in bed last night.

This morning it had stopped raining and I took a look but couldn't see where the water was coming in. Paul came to my rescue and we dismantled the rooflight but still couldn't see any breaks in the seals. Eventually I taped the whole outside perimeter with glazing tape, courtesy of Paul, we re-assembled the rooflight and now have our fingers crossed that it's leakproof until we get back to the UK when I can carry out a more permanent repair. I have to say it was fun standing on Paul's kitchen table which was balanced between our work top and a collapsible stool balanced on our bench seat!

Repairs completed Paul and Chris offered to drive us in their van along the tourist trail through the cedar forest to the south of Azrou so we quickly packed a picnic and set off and what a great afternoon we had. The forest changed from Holm Oak to Pine to Cedar and other varieties that we couldn't identify. At 2000 metres there was snow on the ground but it was warm in the brilliant sunshine and the views through the trees into Azrou below were stunning. We came across a troop of Barbery Apes who were foraging by the roadside and as soon as we stopped they took to the trees but for five minutes or so we watched them swinging through the trees, stopping occasionally to look back at us before dropping into the snow covered ground some 50ft away and disappearing into the forest. A mile or so further on we came across another troop of about twenty Apes picking over stones looking for food on a hillside about thirty metres from the road. We stopped and we were far enough away that they didn't seem bothered by us and we felt so lucky to have seen these animals in the wild. As we left the forest we passed a couple of picnic places adjacent to the main road where local folk were feeding some of the Apes who had grown used to this type of contact. We didn't stop.

There's a lot of fruit grown in this part of Morocco and today we passed small farms all of which had a cherry orchard and a couple of places with larger orchards. It must be beautiful here when the trees are in blossom. Even the site we are now on has cherry trees planted all over the site.

If you look very closely you'll see an ape up this tree:

 

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Midelt

We are parked up tonight in Midelt on the Municipal campsite. It's ok although the facilities leave a bit to be desired so we are using our on-board loo and showers. The site itself is a little reminiscent of Granada insofar as we have a backdrop of snow covered mountains. That's as far as the similarities go because it is scorching hot and we have storks nesting in the trees, mosque and ariel pylons just behind us. Recently we have been awoken by the call to prayers and donkeys braying. This morning it was the bugler from the barracks round the corner and the clacking of storks. Makes a change I suppose. Despite the all day sunshine here the local folk are walking about in wooly jumpers, hats and parkas and they reckon it's cold! Us Europeans on the site here are in shorts and t shirts and in danger of getting sunburnt.

There is a Sunday souk here and we walked the mile or so to have a look this morning and although we weren't too sure where it was the policy of following the crowds led us to what I can only describe as the biggest car boot sale I've ever seen crammed next to stalls selling clothes, shoes, pottery, glassware furniture, animal feed, fruit, veg, car parts, doors, jewellery. In fact just about everything was on sale with vendors shouting each other down with megaphones. The place was rammed with shoppers and browsers although amongst the thousands of people there we were the only Europeans we saw. After half an hour of dodging bikes, mopeds and donkeys we escaped and walked back to town for a coffee. No sooner had we sat down than a well dressed guy comes over and asks where we are from. We told him and he chatted with us for five minutes or so telling us all about the local area and friends he had in, coincidentally, Yorkshire. He asked where we were going next and he told us a few places to look out for and then, wait for it, you'll never guess. He has a shop selling Berber carpets and jewellery and would we like to have a look? No need to buy anything, just have a look, no pressure. We explained that we had some more shopping to do in the small market next door and he offered to wait at the cafe for us. Off we went and bought our bits and pieces; rice stuffed chicken off the rotisserie which will last us for three days,a kilo of dates for £4 and some fruit and veg. We took a different exit from the market and would you believe there he was, our friend with the Berber carpets. We went to his shop, took tea with him while he showed us some great carpets, camel wool, sheeps wool and cactus silk. But we only have a small camping car! Out came the small carpets and I must be honest I would have bought one but common sense in the shape of Phil prevailed and we left on good terms despite not having bought anything.

The Souk at Midelt:

 

 

I mentioned a couple of days ago that we were going to take the national roads from Chez Pauline, our last stop, to where we are now rather than the "scenic" route but our hosts said that the longer but far more interesting route was on ok roads so we took their advice and we were glad we did. We drove through an impressive gorge after a few miles and noticed how the landscape changed afterwards and as we came further north, leaving behind the desert with its oasis and palm trees and fertile irrigated land for the High Atlas Mountains with sheep and goats scratching around in the almost barren surroundings. The few villages we came through looked like the poorest and least developed that we had seen so far, real subsistence farming on the small parcels of land that were available in the valleys. We climbed to nearly 2000 metres before we dropped down again quite rapidly to where we are now at 1500 metres.

Tomorrow we are heading off for a campsite mid way between Azrou and Ifrane. We met a Russian guy and his wife when we were in Ourzazate a week or so ago, as you do, and he recommended this site. He's been to Morocco before and was a mine of information so we'll take his advice and look for the apple orchard campsite.

Finally, many of the dwellings here are still built with traditional mud and straw blocks. They're long lasting and have good insulation properties. Here's a photo of some drying at Chez Pauline's before being used to complete the building in the background.

 

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Chez Pauline

We are parked up tonight at Chez Pauline, in Tadighoust about ten miles or so north of Goulmima. We arrived yesterday and the last few miles were along narrow bumpy tracks with overhanging trees and buildings but the drive was well worth the effort, this is a truly remarkable place. Owned by Andre and Chantal Boyer, who were hoteliers for a decade in Guinea and Seirra Leone, they now have a homestead just outside a small Berber village with some gites and parking for a few Motorhomes. We are surrounded by Palm trees, and cherry, apricot, peach, almond, plum, olive, lemon and orange trees. Pet dogs and cats wander about and we have no need for an alarm clock as the donkey in the small paddock behind us starts braying at 6.30am sharp. This couple have amassed an amazing collection of African masks, statuary and artefacts which are scattered about the house and gardens. Chantal can cook too! Tonight we enjoyed cream of courgette soup, home made rilletes, pork (yes pork) casserole and strawberries and papaya, all ingredients being organic and sourced locally if not grown by Andre and Chantal. The best meal we've had in Morocco, in fact the best meal we've had anywhere for a long time.

There are fertile fields all around the village and a primitive but effective irrigation system and the lush green environment is a stark contrast to the Hammada, or rocky desert, which surrounds it and which is overlooked by the High Atlas. And it's the Haut Atlas which we will be crossing tomorrow heading north on our way to Midelt. There are two routes, one on a national road all the way and one on tarmac which has a stretch of piste for about ten miles and which gets up to about 2500m. Much as we would like to take the "scenic" route, considering we are driving Motorhomes and not Land Cruisers common sense has to prevail. Also the rougher road may well be blocked by snow at time of year. According to the guide books Midelt hasn't a great deal to recommend it and for us it's just an overnight stop on the way to Azrou and Ifrane which both sound like places we would like to visit. Meanwhile, a couple of pics:

I think this sky could safely be called azure eh?

Parked up at Chez Pauline, the oranges in the tree in the foreground were picked an hour or so later for marmalade.

 

 

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Gorges du Todra

Today we walked the four miles or so up to Todra Gorge. It was a lovely blue sky morning when we set off although a little chilly in the wind out of the sun. We stopped for breakfast, somewhat inevitably, and the rest of the gang scored it a seven. I gave it a zero. No cheese, marmalade instead of apricot jam and mint tea instead of a nice Moroccan cuppa. Hey ho. We arrived at the gorge and the many tourist stalls just ahead of the coach parties and 4WD excursion groups. It's certainly an impressive geological feature but I thought it narrowed to a couple of feet, which it doesn't. I must be getting my gorges mixed up. I think the narrower one is at Dades where we were a couple of days ago, confined to our Motorhomes due to a sandstorm. I took some photos but they don't really do the place justice, the red sandstone cliffs tower above you on either side while a shallow river bubbles through which I expect would be quite wide and deep at another time of the year.

Todra Gorge:

 

It became much warmer as we started our walk back, the wind had dropped and we were in full sunshine all the way back. Boy, was I ready for that cold can of Flag, even at £1.50 a pop and we certainly enjoyed our lunch of salad and the last of our cold meats. Just in case you don't think I deserved my cold beer these are the kind of temperatures we are having to endure in Tinghir at the moment and it looks like it's getting warmer!

Tomorrow we are setting of to Chez Pauline, described in the guide as an "organic oasis/African art gallery/farmyard petting zoo/gourmet retreat". Something for everybody in our party then. It's less than an hour away and we are hoping to stop there a day or so before pushing on to Azrou via Ar-Rachida and Midelt. The latter two places are just stopping off points for us but we'll be looking out for the Barbary Apes as we approach Azrou through the forest. But before any of that I have to attempt to follow Arsenal (2) Bayern Munich (1) on a very, very poor internet connection. There's a German van on the site here with a tv dish and I'm tempted to pop over and introduce myself with a couple of cans of Flag but I'm sure it will end badly.

 

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