A bit of Greek History and Culture

We left Larissa heading for a campsite at Kato Gatzea on the west side of the Pelion peninsular. We needed a washing machine and a quiet day both of which we found at Camping Hellas (N39.309707 E23.107924) Lunch in the beachside restaurant was, basically, fish. Gavros (small fried fish like whitebait but a bit bigger) followed by grilled Dorado. The Greek salad was the only concession to a vegetable. All delicious though.

 

The following day we drove further south toward the tip of the peninsular stopping a couple of times to see if we wanted to stop the night. Nowhere was too appealing so we thought we’d set off over the Pelion mountains to Cherefto, a tiny village next to a sandy beach on the east of the peninsular  The Pelion` mountains aren’t that high, the road over peaks at about 1000m but the roads are twisting and narrow and unsurfaced in parts so by the time we arrived at Cherefto (N39.454620 E23.120860) we’d had enough driving for the day. Of course the next day we had to drive back over again via a different road to get to Volos, a busy coastal port and the only outlet to the sea from Thessaly, which is Greece’s largest agricultural region. The views of the city as you drop down from the mountains are spectacular. We found a parking space on the edge of town next to a small beach (N39.350741 E22.962230). 

 

Further south on Wednesday with a stop at Thermopylae on the way to pay our respects to Leonidas. In 480 BC Leonidas set off from Sparta with a force of 300 Spartan soldiers and 900 Helots who were the dominant population of Sparta but enjoyed low status to say the least and would best be described as conscripted men. By the time Thermopylae was reached Leonidas’ army had swelled to somewhere between 4,000 and 7,000 men. Unfortunately they faced an invading Persian army led by Xerxes numbering 300,000 soldiers. Leonidas and his men repulsed the Persian army and held the pass for 6 days until a Greek traitor, Ephialtes, led the Persians via a mountain track to the rear of the Greeks. Leonidas was killed in the ensuing battle but rather than leave his body to the Persians the remaining Spartans drove back Xerxes men four times and retrieved his body. There’s an immense statue of the man and an interesting visitor centre there now which is well worth a visit. We stopped the night  further east at Livanates (N38.708534 E23.062540), a quiet unremarkable coastal village which looked like it would be busy in the summer.

 

Now, although we’ve been to Greece three times before in the motorhome we’ve never visited Athens, mainly because we couldn’t find anywhere secure to park the van. This time we did a little more research and discovered a secure car park facility in Piraeus, a five minute walk to the Metro which took 20 minutes to take us into the Centre of Athens, perfect. We arrived and were met by Marie and her husband Vangellis who showed us where to park, gave us a twenty minute lecture on Greek history, a map on which she marked the places we should visit and her phone number in case we had any problems. All for €13 a night (N37.947559 E23.645707). We took the metro and visited most of the main tourist sites - the changing of the guard outside the parliament building, the Roman Agora, the Ancient Agora, the National Gardens and the cluster of white painted cottages in the Anafiotika quarter which nestle in the hillside beneath the Acropolis. The Temple of Olympian Zeus (the largest Temple ever built), Hadrian’s Arch and the Monastiraki flea market. We walked for hours and finally took the Metro back to Piraeus. Marie told us the best time to visit the Acropolis was early morning or late evening so the following day we made an early start and arrived at the Acropolis by 9.30am. By the time we left a couple of hours later it was packed. 

 

We have over the last few years visited Delphi, Ancient Dion, Epidavros and a few smaller archeological sites but nothing prepared us for the Acropolis. The sheer scale of the buildings takes your breath away and the 360 degree views over the city are amazing. The main buildings, the Parthenon and the temple of Poseidon are undergoing massive renovation programmes which will take many years to complete. We walked back down to the Acropolis museum which houses many of the statues and artefacts recovered from the site and spent another couple of hours there. It was Phil’s birthday, not many folk visit the Acropolis on their birthday eh?

 

When we had arrived at the car park in Piraeus we were parked next to a French motorhome but had seen no sign of life; it seemed abandoned but late in the evening when we returned from the Acropolis a taxi arrived and a young French couple with two small daughters emerged. We spoke to them and they told us they had been at the hospital for 5 days whilst their youngest daughter, aged about 18 months, had been treated for a serious urinary infection. They had stayed at the hospital all the time and were exhausted. Marie had looked after their van for them, had visited them at the hospital and later that evening took them all home with her and gave them an evening meal. Another example of the generosity of the Greek people. 

 

After two days walking in Athens we thought we deserved a few days of doing not very much so headed off for the Blue Dolphin campsite on the coast about 5 miles west of Corinth, (N37.935527 E22.865461). We’ve stopped here a few times before and although the site is a little tired and could do with a lick of paint at the very least we are always given a warm welcome by Peter and his family. We arrived last Sunday and we’re still here. The plan is to stay another day and then visit ancient Mycenae on Friday and then head further south into the Peloponnese.

 

Last evening as the sun set I saw some fish splashing out in the bay so picked up the rod, scrambled over the rocks and had a few casts. Took me a minute or two to realise that the mosquitos were feasting on my legs so I gave up on the fishing and smeared some anti histamine cream on. My Mum used to say she could see a purpose for all God’s creatures except flies. I’m not so sure about that but I started to Google mosquitos to see what benefit they were, or might be, to humans and what part they play in the food chain. Interesting reading but this is the bit I wanted to see - “In summary, the mosquito species that spread disease are not essential parts of any food web or chain and are humanity's worst foe. Kill them with impunity.”

 

 

Pat

Greece

We left Ancona on Wednesday afternoon and landed at Igoumenitsa at 8am Thursday morning, should have been 7am but hey ho, maybe there was a headwind. The crossing was smooth but unfortunately we shared the crossing with 6/7 coachloads of Italian teenagers on what appeared to be a school holiday trip which meant they ran up and down the corridors banging on doors all night. I felt a bit sorry for the lads, they showed the Juve-Real Madrid game on the TV in the lounge and the boys were ecstatic when 3-0 up only for Ronaldo to break their hearts in the 97th minute. That was hard for them. 

 

A pleasant drive found us at Ioannina by mid morning and a car park, with a water tap, for €8/24hrs (N39.673072 E20.854670). We stopped at Ioannina a few years ago but didn’t do too much exploring but this time we wandered up to the town centre through a mix of Byzantine and Ottoman architecture, international shops and old hardware stores and plenty of cafes and restaurants. I was on a mission to find a Greek Data SIM card, found just what I wanted in the Cosmote shop but didn’t have my passport with me which is a requirement in Greece. Back to the van and then back to the shop, fill out the forms, pay the money and I’m good to go. Except I wasn’t, when I got back to the van I couldn’t connect to t’interweb! Back to the shop and another hour whilst it was all sorted. Which meant I could watch Arsenal hang on and draw 2-2 with CSKA Moscow; Atlético Madrid awaits us.

 

The following morning we set off for the Old Citadel and the Silversmith Museum, the city is known for its silver craftsmanship and the museum was most interesting. We like Ioannina, the lake, the citadel, and the people.

 

We had visited Meteoro before, last time we were here we explored 4 of the monasteries in one day but this time we arrived in the late afternoon and thought we would just visit the Grand Meteoro this time. The massive pinnacles of smooth rock are breathtaking and the monasteries sat on their peaks are almost unbelievable. Mostly built in the 14th century the monasteries were initially only accessible via removable ladders or windlasses with baskets to carry the monks up and down. In the 1920’s steps were hewn into the rocks but access is still not an easy task, we climbed 27 floors and our calves knew it the next day. But it’s worth it. Apparently Meteoro is the most visited place in mainland Greece and if you’re all monastery’d out there are plenty of beautiful walks around the area. We stopped the night at Arsenis Guesthouse, it’s free if you buy a meal (N39.708436 E21.654706). It’s a bit like Fawlty Towers but without the humour. Basically you get a Greek salad and whatever Arsenis can find to throw on the barbecue providing there are enough folk who want to eat and make it worth his while to fire up the barby. Arsenis assures everyone that his Mum (who must be 80 if she’s a day) is a fantastic cook but basically she fries the chips. The dining room is a sombre affair to say the least until Arsenis’ son/brother/mum sits down and turns the TV on. Last time we were here there were a few other Motorhomers and Arsenis came round in the early evening shouting “Pork, Chicken?” and we indicated what we wanted him to barbecue for us. “ Seven O’clock you eat” he shouted. Four French Motorhomers turned up at half past seven and he refused to serve them because they were late. They explained that they had been for aperitifs but that wasn’t good enough. “You’re late, no food” he shouted as the chicken and pork caramelised on the barby. 

 

So tonight we are parked up in a small car park next to a park and the river Peneios in Larissa just five minutes from the city centre (N39.642683 E22.411524). We were lucky to get in here, we took the last parking space that could accommodate us. It was a bit of a squeeze getting in and I suspect it will be even more of a squeeze reversing out tomorrow morning. Larissa isn’t a tourist town, there are no translations into English, German or Italian on the menus but it’s a great busy, bustling place. We wandered around for a few hours today and there must be, at least, 200 coffee bars here, probably more, and all of them full on Saturday lunchtime with families and young folk all enjoying the spring sunshine and enjoying their coffee. Although nearly all the places were licensed we didn’t see a single person drinking alcohol. Folk have been coming and going all day to the park and late this afternoon a couple of wedding parties arrived to have photos taken by the fountains. 

 

It’s been 30 degrees here today and 35 in the van so tomorrow we’re setting off for Kato Gatzea on the coast about 50 miles south to a campsite where we can do some washing and other domestic chores and enjoy a sea breeze.

 

One of the wedding parties has just returned from having their photos taken. I went over and gave them a shiny pound and wished them wealth and happiness. I remember when Phil and I got married and on the train back down to London from Newcastle a lady came over and gave us the same token. Worked for us.

 

 

Pat

The last few days in Italy

Well, the haircut in Cesenatico went ok as did the football match😄 I was happy with both results. In the evening whilst we were there some Romany lasses from a small camp next to where we were parked came over to do their washing. They had a couple of large buckets and used the cold water tap to wash and rinse their clothes and then spread the brightly coloured garments on the grass embankment beneath the river to dry. Early the next morning we were woken by what sounded like a concrete mixer. Got up, had a peek and a couple of guys with a machine were cleaning out the busted chemical toilet dump. Queue the lasses running over to remove their clothes before they got splattered.  Enough of dodgy Sostas we thought; lets find a campsite and chill out for a couple of days, so we headed for Riccione on the coast. I came to Riccione when I was a kid with my folks, I was maybe 8 or 9 and remember having a great time despite the sunburn but hey, we had calomine lotion in those days. I vaguely remember the hotel we stayed at being 100yds from the beach, there was a coffee stall and a small cafe/restaurant and miles of golden sand and warm sea. I didn’t expect to find the hotel or the young waiter who took me on his Vespa to meet his folks in Cattolica or the little park where I could hire a bike and ride round for hours. We walked up and down the road over the next couple of days and were amazed that all the accesses to the beach were private. We were about a mile from the centre of Riccione and all the way along the beach were 65 private beaches attached to hotels/apartmemts or campsites. We’d noticed the same thing at Cesenatico, we walked down a road leading to the beach and then had to walk half a mile until we could gain access because of the corrugated tin barriers preventing us actually getting onto some sand. I don’t have a problem with a beachside cafe or bar sticking a few loungers and umbrellas on the beach and charging you to use them, but denying access for a mile or so seemed unacceptable to me. Anyway, they say you should never go back. The campsite was ok though, nice hot showers. We were on the flight path to Rimini airport but not too many flights this time of year. But boy, those bikers are really pushing it on the road behind us eh? Ah, theres a race circuit at Misano about half a mile away. Practice on Saturday and racing on Sunday. When each race started the noise came in waves but as the riders became strung out after a few laps it was constant. We thought if you can’t beat ‘em, join ‘em but after walking for ages we couldnt find the entrance to the circuit so we went back to the campsite and I amused myself trying to guess what kind of bend they were taking from the gearchange. It was a first for us, we’ve parked up in places with traffic noise, train lines, airplanes, dogs barking all night, owls hooting and screeching, loud music from bars/clubs but the motor racing circuit was a first. And those bikes brought back memories. I had a cousin who raced a 500cc Manx Norton and when I was about 10 or 11 he used to take me with him and his mechanic in a dirty green Commer van to Snetterton, Oulton Park, Silverstone and Brands Hatch. The sun always seemed to be shining when we set off and it was always dark when we came back. Once, I think it was Silverstone, I hung around the beer tent. There was a deposit on bottles in those days but most folk couldnt be arsed going back for the money so I would collect the bottles from where they’d left them and collect the deposit money. The races then started with the 50cc category and worked up to 500cc with one or two sidecar races in between. The sound of those 50cc bikes, ( I think they were all Itoms or Items?)  will stay with me forever, together with the image of these big guys straddling such a tiny bike. Happy Days. All that was missing yesterday when I heard those bikes was the smell of Castrol R. So tonight we are in Jesi, (N43.518799 E13.241587) sometimes spelt Lesi, just a half hour away from Ancona and the ferry to Greece tomorrow afternoon. Just a small car park but there’s a waste dump and fresh water with no charge. There’s also a lift to take us up to the old part of town with its elegant pedestrianised main street with the expensive shops and the Cathedral, Bishops Palace and large and small Piazzas surrounded on three sides by the tall City walls. We like Jesi.  So tomorrow we set off for Greece for 6/8 weeks. Arrive in Igoumenitsa at 7am Thursday morning and head towards Ioannina seeking WiFi (second leg against CSKA Moscow).    Pat

A few more days in Italy

 

 

We stayed in Verona for 3 nights, there is so much to enjoy in the city. On Sunday we headed off for Vicenza, another city we visited in 2014 when we drove overland to Greece. Vicenza is best known for it’s buildings designed by Andrea Palladio in the 16th century and when we visited last time we were impressed and spent an enjoyable day wandering around. This time though we were just looking at the same Palladian buildings we had seen before and failed to discover anything else to entertain us. We stopped in a large car park with dedicated motorhome parking and water and waste facilities and from memory it cost us less than €10 for 24 hrs (N45.542844 E11.559511),its a fifteen minute walk into town.

 

On Monday we set off for Ferrara for no other reason than it’s on the way to Ancona and the centre boasts a mix of Renaissance and Medieval architecture. The Este Castle, in the centre of town is particularly impressive. A large manor house with four massive bastions and surrounded by a moat, it was built in 1385 both to protect the town from external threats and to serve as a fortified residence for the Este family. We crossed the moat via a still working drawbridge into a courtyard but the queues to enter the castle snaked round and round (and admission wasn’t free) so we didn’t stop too long. But we walked for miles around the town and into the Cathedral of Saint George which was consecrated in 1135 and renovated many times over the centuries resulting in a mix of Romanesque, Gothic and Renaissance styles. The  brick built city walls which were mostly built between 1492 and 1520 have been restored and now circle the town for a distance of 6 miles. We didn’t do the circuit. We nearly didn’t stop in Ferrara at all. Arriving at the motorhome parking area we discovered the most complicated means of access we have ever encountered! We needed internet access to log onto the site and fill in a load of forms (in Italian) to gain a password. Then back into the website to indicate how long we wanted to stay, pay by credit card and eventually obtain a QR code to present at the barrier. We did this parked up in a tiny access car park and when we finally were ready to access the site we couldn’t get to the barrier because of the vans parked up with the occupants scratching their heads and trying to work out how they could get in. Eventually after I asked them a few times they backed up and we were in. In addition to the €10 fee for overnight parking all other services had to paid for, waste disposal, fresh water and electricity. Water was 50c but once you had put the coin in the machine the water poured out with no tap, so if you were filling up using containers rather than a hose by the time you had collected 20 litres and poured it in the van the other 80 litres was on the floor. I got a bit of a system going with a German guy but even then we wasted more water than we obtained. Here are the coordinates if you fancy a challenge (N44.835590 E11.611110).

 

Tuesday we drove the 50 miles to Castel San Pietro Terme, a lovely little town which we’ve visited before and in which everybody is so friendly. The motorhome parking overlooks some well tended allotments, it’s free and there is fresh water and a waste dump (N44.39795 E11.59341). The butcher supplied us with some delicious meatballs and seasoned pork escalopes. The Co-Op supermarket provided everything else we needed and we decided to stop a couple of days. On the Monday night I realised that the 12gb data SIM card was exhausted! How could we have used that much data in four days? The lass in the Vodafone shop in Verona had told me that when it was nearly empty I would receive a notification with links to top it up but that hadn’t happened. On the Tuesday lunchtime I walked up into town, found some free WiFi and bought another €20 credit from the Vodafone website. I wondered how many Gb the €20 had purchased so wandered around for an hour or so until I found a Vodafone shop which was closed for lunch. We went back in the afternoon and whilst I was asking the question of a lady with limited English and using Google translate a young lad came in who had been studying in London and spoke perfect English. To cut a very long story short I had been mis-sold the incorrect card in Verona which I could not top up, despite Vodafone happily taking my €20 a few hours earlier. Between us we decided the best thing to do was start again but as I was using so much data I’d be better off with a 35Gb deal and anything left on it could be used, hopefully, when we return to Italy in June. “But what about the €20” I kept wailing. After several phone calls it was agreed that it would be credited against my new purchase.

 

But the mystery remained as to how I had used so much data and after a bit of research on our phones and pads we reckon it was the background app refresh function. Put it this way, when we turned it off we weren’t using anywhere near the same amount of data. Lesson learnt.

 

So after a couple of pleasant days in Caste San Pietro Terme we set off this morning for Cesenatico on the Adriatic coast about 25 miles north of Rimini. We are parked up in a motorhome car park with water and waste dump and it’s free (N44.198782 E12.391332). We’ve had a wander around and whilst it’s pretty enough we didn’t think there would be enough to keep us occupied for more than a day but I saw a barbers, popped in for a trim but he can’t fit me in till 1pm tomorrow. So we’ll have to explore some more tomorrow. I’ve had haircuts in France, Spain and Greece but never before in Italy. Wish me luck.

 

A few thoughts on Italian sostas. Whilst we always endeavour to find free places to stop overnight or for a day or so we don’t mind paying if that’s the only option and if the facilities are ok. But it doesn’t seem to matter whether you pay €20 or nowt the facilities always seem to leave a lot to be desired. I won’t go into the details of toilet cassette emptying, you may be eating your tea whilst reading this, but anyone who has a motorhome knows what is needed and we rarely find anywhere that’s maintained or serviced. The other thing we’ve noticed is the number of motorhomes parked which look like they haven’t moved for weeks or months or even years. Some of them held together with gaffer tape and expanding foam. Sometimes we see folk going in and out of them and some look completely abandoned. It’s strange because we don’t see this anywhere else in Europe. 

Finally you may wonder why I was obsessed with getting some WiFi urgently. Well, Arsenal play CSKA Moscow tonight and that’s a must see match. If we win tonight and I get a decent haircut tomorrow I’ll be happy.

 

 

Pat